步步精彩处处流连——加拿大落基山旅游札记(9)

2006年10月9日 | 分类: 旅游 (全局), 旅行记事 | 作者: 东风车行 | 60,373 浏览
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(星星生活特稿:文/捷克佳,摄影/捷克佳、汪伟明)(接第214期)我们加拿大落基山之行的第5天锁定在库特尼国家公园。库特尼公园以物种地貌气候的生态多样性而著称,正如公园的主题招牌所云“从仙人掌至冰川”。

库特尼一词是当地土著人用来称呼自己的名称,意思是“河边的人”。数千年来,现今的库特尼公园所在地曾经是土著库特尼族(Kootenay,Ktunaxa)和萨斯瓦普族(Shuswap)传统领地的一部分。考古学家发现,有证据显示,这一带的山区是当时主要的季节性狩猎场。根据在附近发现的古代的石壁画,平原和山地的土著人可能定期在库特尼的温泉集会。

第五日(7月27日)行程概要:朱砂隘口(Vermilion Pass)—赭土矿和彩绘池(Ochre Beds & Paint Pots)—库特尼公园旅馆游客中心(Kootenay  Park Lodge Visitor Centre)—橄榄湖(Olive Lake)—镭温泉(Radium Hot Springs)—辛克莱峡谷(Sinclair Canyon)—镭温泉镇(Village of Radium Hot Springs)

**弃铁路建公路

说起来,库特尼国家公园的建立是联邦政府与卑诗省的又一笔交易。西部开发时期,派勒什勘测队的詹姆士·赫克托在1858年即在这一地区勘探,他建议加拿大太平洋铁路公司(CPR)在朱砂隘口铺设铁路。不过,CPR最终选择也是由他发现的位于优鹤与班芙公园交界的踢马河隘口。只是那段线路更陡,也更危险。其中一段后来不得不改为8字型盘山铁路隧道(请参阅前文)。

1912年前后, CPR的工程师罗伯特·布鲁斯(Robert Bruce)提议修建一条从卡尔加利,经班芙,跨越朱砂隘口至卑诗省温德米尔(Windermere)的全天候公路,以加强两省的联系,并促进落基山地区旅游业的发展。筑路费用由联邦、卑诗和阿尔伯塔三方共同承担。

卡尔加利至朱砂隘口段按计划在1914年完工,然而,卑诗省因经济困难以及适逢第一次世界大战爆发,无法完工自己承担的路段。为此,根据布鲁斯的建议,联邦政府与卑诗省达成协议,修建班芙–温德米尔公路,联邦政府完成所余下的60英里(94公里)路段,而卑诗省则将公路两侧各5英里(8公里)的范围转让(Convey)给政府辟为国家公园。由此,1920年4月21日,库特尼国家公园正式诞生。

从地图上看,库特尼公园的形状狭长,基本上是以93号公路为主轴,而非通常的流域分水岭。这条公路是第一条穿越加拿大落基山脉的机动车公路,该工程克服种种困难终于在1922年秋季提前竣工,并在1923年6月30日正式开通。

当时汽车开始取代火车,成为旅游者度假时使用的主要交通工具。在公园开放的第一年,就有4500辆T型福特车及其他车辆造访库特尼公园。后来,在1952年,政府又对这条公路进行了重建并重铺。

从有关文献中看到,有人揣测当年放弃选择在此段修筑铁路很有可能是受政治因素的左右。或许确实如此,但笔者并不这样认为,驾车在93号公路上最为常见的交通牌是连续不断的坡度警示,如7%,8%,10%,其中临近镭温泉镇的最陡坡度达11%(6.28°)。

什么概念?从数学上讲这是正切值,每百米水平距离的高差达11米,坡度之陡着实令人汗颜。只是坐在汽车中感觉坡度并没有如此强烈。据手边查阅的资料称,一般越野汽车的最大爬坡度可达60%,即30°左右,而普通载重汽车的最大爬坡度一般在30%左右,约16.5°。表面上坡度警示与最大爬坡度间尚有巨大的空间与潜力,但实际上百分之七、八的坡度已经让载重车辆十分吃力。

这段不足百公里的公路上经常会出现大车压车的现象。但安全第一,大家车跟车,并不着急。在长距离的下坡区段,专门有刹车检查处,此外,多处建有专为刹车失灵而设立的紧急避险缓冲道。由此可见该区道路修建之难,公路尚且如此,况铁路呼?

我们一行人的主驾车长汪为明曾在湖北十堰的“二汽”工作相当长一段时间,他介绍说,当年驾东风车去云南瑞丽,有一段道路上坡需4小时,下坡3小时,车闸瓦因制动导致瓦片通红,需要强制淋水降温。相比之下,这里的道路建设更为完善合理。

**朱砂隘口(Vermilion Pass)

从坎莫尔沿国道1号公路北上,过班芙数公里后转93号公路,汽车一路爬上长长的坡道,越过朱砂隘口就抵达库特尼国家公园。朱砂隘口标高1651米,景点处的主要标志是三面旗帜和一个水泥界碑。加拿大国旗居中,两侧分列卑诗省与阿尔伯达省的省旗。

这里既是两省的分界线,也是班芙与库特尼国家公园的分界线,同时也是著名的大陆分水岭(Continental Divide)的一个主要节点。界碑以东,河水流经弓河、沙斯卡奇万河入大西洋;界碑以西,河水流经朱砂河、库特尼河,汇集哥伦比亚河入太平洋。

据信,朱砂隘口得名于探险家赫克托在临近地区发现土著人用作彩绘的原料朱砂。1858年8月20日对赫克托来说是一个重要的日子,因为历经艰辛,“终于看到第一条流入太平洋河水的源头,”赫克托在他的日记中这样记载。可以想象出当年勘测队员站在高山之巅亲见河流分注两大洋的狂喜之情。

**森林大火的重新思考

朱砂隘口景点处有一条下行的火草步道(Fireweed Trail),可以观赏1968年森林大火的遗迹。当年那场因雷电引发的森林大火,持续数日,2500公顷的森林化为灰烬。只是“野火烧不尽,春风吹又生”,站在公路边,向远处眺望,残留的乌黑树干下已经是处处翠绿。

不过与2003年的大火相比,这场大火则是小巫见大巫。在干燥的2003年夏季,加拿大西部多处遭受森林大火的肆虐。库特尼公园的都昆溪(Tokumm Creek)和佛伦德利溪(Verendrye Creek)相隔20多公里,两处分别因雷电引发的森林大火最终合并在一起,受灾的过火面积占到公园总面积的12.6%。据文字记载,当年有近400名来自全加个省的消防人员赶赴现场救灾,以保护公园设施和防止火势蔓延至弓河谷地。

车行93号公路沿线,目光所至,火灾留下的痕迹随处可见。那些被火吞噬过的树木残骸,有些已经倾倒,大多仍屹立不摇。受2003年森林大火的影响,虽然大部分公园设施和远足步道相继恢复开放,但遗憾的是,官方旅游手册推荐的位于都昆溪之内的大理石峡谷(Marble Canyon)至今仍然关闭,以维修景区内的桥梁和通道,我们只好驾车一晃而过。

现在,人们已经对森林大火等自然现象有了全新的认识。通常任大火自生自灭,只有当大火直接威胁到游客、工作人员的生命和文化遗迹的安全时,才采取必要的措施。

科学家认为,火是大自然新陈代谢的工具,对许多生态系统是常规的事件,基本上不会长期造成破坏,它可淘汰森林中的病树、枯木,让新树有生长的空间。作为自然生态循环的一个链条,不能随意割断。火对于森林或草原来说,并不一定是灾害,一些植物和动物的生长与繁殖往往得益于火。

科学家举例说,如松树的生长周期大约是250年,超过这个年龄的树木即开始衰老,森林大火常发生于衰老的过熟森林。有些树木要借助大火种子才能迸开发芽。另外,焚烧过的土地会更加肥沃,更利于树木生长。总体上看,大火促进了已进入垂暮之年的过熟林的自然更新。

**赭土矿和彩绘池(Ochre Beds & Paint Pots)

车续前行,不久就按路标指示抵达著名的彩绘池景区。停车步行不远,跨过朱砂河一个小小的钢索斜拉桥,就看到遍地的红土以及红色的河水。这是出游以来,第一次看到其他颜色的河水或山涧泉水。

这里的解说牌形状比较别致,棕褐色的木板上用比较难以辨认的花字体介绍赭土矿层和彩绘池,展板上还留有一些人的掌迹。据介绍,这种矿物富含氧化铁,氢氧化铁,是画家染料的底色,最早由活跃于本区的土著印第安人发现并以此为傲。野史中记载,班芙镇旁的朱砂湖底也产褐色的赭土,看来应是误传,那里应该是得名于霞光映照之下的美丽湖色,这里才是正宗的产地。

土著人在挖掘出赭土后,将土揉搓成块,放在炉火里烤干,磨成粉状。然后用鱼油或动物脂肪搅拌成颜料,用以彩绘并装饰自己身体、 帐篷小屋以及他们的衣物,或者用于岩石上作画。

据信,赭土矿层的开采在1860年前就已经开始。探险家詹姆士·赫克托是目前有记载的首位造访该处的欧洲人。20世纪初期,这里的赭土矿层被认为有商业价值,于是通过手工挖掘,装袋,用马车运载到24公里之外的加拿大太平洋铁路线上(今城堡山一带),然后运输至卡尔加里贩售加工。1920年期间,业者已经开始采用更精细的提炼方法和机器设备去大量采集,烘干和粉碎产品。

不过,库特尼国家公园1920年成立后,虽然此处的采矿仍在持续,但为保护公园的景观和地貌,当局决定逐渐停止园内的采矿业。因此,在赭土床附近的路旁,如今仍能看到已经废弃的绣迹斑斑的工具和手推车等物品。

沿与溪流相伴而行的一条小路上行,便来到彩绘池。其实彩绘池是名副其实的矿泉群,由三个相距不远的矿泉池组成。这些矿泉中涌出的冰冷矿泉水富含铁矿物质,每个池口的边缘形成逐渐增高的轮缘,流淌的泉水则将土壤染成红褐黄等各种颜色。

穿越彩绘池,发现有步行的痕迹,遂续向前走,不过深入林中探路良久,发现是一个较长的远足步道,且关键处较少路标指示,害得多走一段路,只好放弃沿途返回。

**库特尼公园旅馆游客中心(Kootenay  Park Lodge Visitor Centre)

从彩绘池出发再上93号公路,沿着朱砂河一路南行约20公里,一座古香古色的旅馆出现在河畔路边,这就是库特尼公园旅馆游客中心。既是旅馆又是游客中心?没错!这个游客中心是加拿大政府首次允许私人公司管理的国家公园资讯中心。

库特尼公园旅馆最初的名称是朱砂河宿营地(Vermilion River Camp),是由加拿大太平洋铁路公司于1923年所建。它是CPR为吸引世界各地游客赴落基山旅游所建的众多野外简易旅馆之一。截至目前,80多年来,此物业仅转手5次,现任业主是贺契尔和他的母亲(Paul and Francis Holscher)。他们在1991年购入物业后,在次年更名为库特尼公园旅馆,并在1996年起修建游客中心,1997年对外开放。不过,官方手册特别指出,这里没有电话。

进入游客中心的人不少,可以获得不少当地的旅游资料。建筑物外有几块展板图文介绍山火对重建与恢复生态系统的重要性,以及此地2001年发生的森林大火。但中心的工作人员说,公路对面的过火林残干是2003年大火的“杰作”。 相距不远处的树荫下,专门设有供游人憩息餐饮的木条长桌,以及供小朋友玩耍的康乐设施,这里倒真是个打尖的好地方。

**橄榄湖(Olive Lake)

继续南下约40公里到达库特尼河谷观景点(Kootenay Valley Viewpoint),此处居高临下,可全景观赏库特尼河谷与蜿蜒流淌的河水,以及米切尔(Mitchell)山脉和朱砂山脉。只是因树木遮挡,无法将美景完全纳入镜头。

车行几分钟即抵达袖珍可爱的橄榄湖。橄榄湖紧依公路,面积之小巧,超出自己的想象,感觉上更像是一个不大的池塘。与几天来不断看到的冰川融水不同,这里湖水极为清晰,颜色呈橄榄绿,湖名可能得之于此。

早前,橄榄湖是土著人打猎宿营的一个主要地点。早期的探险家则常来此处垂钓。班芙–温德米尔公路开通后,这里成为可以泊车的野营地,上世纪五、六十年代以来,驾车宿营者蜂拥而至,对景区造成极大的破坏,橄榄湖不得不野营地关闭,仅仅保留成可以野餐的场所。

现今,橄榄湖四周已是植被环绕,景色怡人。有非常短的两段小径可直达湖畔,一路直奔钓鱼台,一路可抵观赏台,探寻不断从湖底泉水冒出的汽泡,想必应该是来自水中横陈朽木的分解?可惜湖面风起涟漪,波光粼粼,无法拍到宣传册中景物倒映湖水的画面,较为令人遗憾。

**镭温泉(Radium Hot Springs)

下一站则是库特尼公园的主要旅游景点也是落基山区三大著名的温泉之一–镭温泉。镭温泉与落基山地区的其他温泉不同,几乎没有气味,矿物质含量相比之下并不出众,但温泉如其名,含有微量的放射性元素镭是最大特色,不过镭的剂量在安全的范围之内。

据记载,镭温泉的经营权很早就由英国人史都华(Roland Stuart)取得,但经营无方。史都华的朋友布鲁斯当年建议政府兴建公路时,特意将路线经过温泉,史都华才开始寻求资金开发。1911年,史都华邀请一位法国富翁到镭温泉治疗并见效,史都华因此获得资助。

不过,大多数资金都被挥霍掉,史都华只建了一个简陋的水泥泳池及更衣间。1922年班芙–温德米尔公路,政府以4万元补偿史都华,将温泉纳入国家公园。史都华最初取得经营权时,据说只付出160元,而政府收回时,估计市价至少值50万元。

镭温泉的泉水来源自红墙断层(Redstreak Breccia Fault),是雨水与融雪渗入地下,经地热加温、加压后,重新回到地表成为温泉。镭温泉池位于辛克莱峡谷峭壁之下的公路旁,有两个室外泉池组成:热的水温保持摄氏40度,凉的水温保持摄氏29度。热水池形状不规则,中间有台,一些人躺在上面,优哉游哉,其乐无穷。相邻不远的凉的温泉池是一个25米长的游泳池,旁边有跳台和儿童滑水,不少孩子都喜欢入此池中嬉戏。

温泉中心附近有几家外表色彩鲜艳夺目的旅馆,还有一座中式的亭阁。而温泉近处的走廊上和通道内的装饰非常得体,红、黄、紫几种颜色的花十分匹配,令人赏心悦目,足见招揽游客的用心。突然间发现,这里的植物花卉多起来,气候也变得有些潮湿。

距镭温泉不远处,就是“一夫当关,万夫莫开”的辛克莱峡谷(Sinclair Canyon)的一处天险通道,两侧峭壁与地面几乎垂直,形势险峻,公路直接由峡谷中通过。辛克莱峡谷是数千年前经水流的冲刷侵蚀而形成,因为该峡谷的形成呈“V”字形,而冰川形成的峡谷呈“U”字形,底部平滑。在落基山区,水流侵蚀而成的峡谷要少于冰川形成的峡谷。

**镭温泉镇(Village of Radium Hot Springs)

穿越天险不久,便进入镭温泉镇。令人惊异的是,这里的餐馆、旅馆和加油站比比皆是,且样式各异,多以鲜花装饰,简直是花儿的海洋,沿街的各家各户也似乎在比赛花饰,左观右看,一家比一家的漂亮。

天气也突然热起来,温湿度跟多伦多差不多。本想进入库特尼公园游客中心附近的一个超市选购一些水果,但店内并没有空调,货架上的苹果发软,葡萄便色,一股潮气扑面而来,只好作罢。

公园的游客中心外景不错,有大角羊的雕像。中心内有关于公园的历史人文介绍,以及落基山脉的沙盘模型图。中心内还有电脑可供游人使用。

进入镭温泉镇才有从仙境重返人间的感觉。

(未完待续)

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1155 条评论

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