从多伦多开车去班芙(6)在落基山中游走

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第六天,Sulphur Mountain硫磺山),Louise (路易斯湖), Moraine(梦莲湖)。

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上硫磺山,和前一天的Whistlers山相比,要容易得多,也是乘坐不到十分钟的缆车,然后步行。但是,山上和地面的气温几乎没有变化,而且都有人工修葺的木板台阶,两边还有栏杆,每隔一段,有一个观景平台供小憩,游人轻松拾阶而上,俯瞰班芙小镇,以及群山峻岭,河流湖泊。值得一提的是,这里随处可见憨态可掬的小松鼠,这种松鼠的样子介乎我们常见的灰色松鼠和花栗鼠之间,名叫“Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel(金背地松鼠)”。有明文规定,禁止游客喂它们,但常常可以看到小松鼠跑到人的面前,直立起身体,高昂着头向人讨要食物。也见到一位带着两个孩子的妈妈,把背包放在地上给两个孩子照相之际,背包的最外面的网状口袋里一个苹果核被小松鼠发现,它趴在背包上想把苹果核掏出来吃,招来好多游人围观。那两个小孩想让妈妈把苹果核拿出来喂小松鼠,妈妈坚决制止,但她伸手要把苹果核拿出来放进背包的其它小松鼠看不到的口袋里,说时迟那时快,小松鼠一直盯着那妈妈的手,苹果核刚一出网状口袋,它便一口从手里叼过去,随即,另一只松鼠又跑过来,继续在背包上爬来爬去,估计是在寻找苹果渣儿。

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按照计划,午后我们的活动内容是去路易斯湖和梦莲湖。这两个湖是班芙的经典,而且绝对名符其实。只是天公有些不作美,刚才还是晴空万里,蓝天白云,待我们到了路易斯湖找好停车位下了车,发现已是乌云满天了。之前看过天气预报,说是第二天有雨,没想到今天下午的天空就开始为明天做预备了。

虽然天色不太给力,但是,挡不住路易斯湖的美,这人间罕见的奇景,真是怎么夸也不过分,真不愧是加拿大的国宝。墨绿色的峻峭山间夹着一池洁净翠绿色的湖水,湖中有游人划着小船,把湖面点缀得五彩斑斓。湖的尽头是海拔三千多米的维多利亚山及冰川。维多利亚冰川和路易斯湖是以英国女皇“维多利亚”和她的小女儿“路易斯”公主的名字命名的,路易斯湖的湖水来自冰川,被称为“女王的眼泪”。可以说路易斯湖景区的每一个元素都是极品的,再经上帝之手奇妙地组合在一起,构成这幅人间奇景,没有人不被其折服。

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如果说翠绿色的路易斯湖是一块翡翠的话,那么依靠南边十座海拔三千多米的山峰上的冰川融化滋养着的,绿中带有蓝色的梦莲湖则好像是一块蓝宝石嵌在群山峻岭之下。而且,梦莲湖的四周几乎保持着纯天然特色,人为加工修整也要少很多。

–发表在《星星生活》2016年7月15日772期

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